The Tyler Chronicle     Winter, 2022       Worldwide Edition
                                   

Chronicle Farm & Garden  

Bugs!

GARDEN BUGS;  FRIEND  AND  FOE

Article by Bugsy Balfore

Throughout the ages, insects have ruled the world. Sometimes we humans don't like to admit it, but it's a fact. They have us outnumbered! And while many of them are beneficial, some can be devastating to the plants we depend upon. Mankind's solution to this problem has been the indiscriminate overuse of chemical poisons. This practice has certainly killed and controlled lots of pesky bugs, but the corollary damage has been great. The time has come to utilize effective, yet less damaging methods.

Use the methods of control we describe here at your own risk. We make no guarantees as to their effectiveness or safety!

Chiggers: Also Known As "No See 'Ums"

You can't fight what you can't see!  And chiggers are very small; smaller than the  period at the end of this sentence. Chiggers are related to spiders and ticks and in their immature form they are bright red in color, thus the common name "redbug". They hatch in the spring and  are parasites to  both humans and the lower animals. They inhabit grassy, weedy areas and are transmitted to their victims by contact with the grass and weeds.  In the lower grasses, they will hitch a ride on your ankles (especially if you aren't wearing socks or high boots). They immediately begin to move upward until they find an area to "dig in". They prefer armpits, the groin area, and around the waist under the belt. If not stopped, they can travel all the way to the head.

They then inject a digestive enzyme which dissolves the skin tissue upon which they feed.  The result is reddening, swelling and intense itching.  But by the time you start itching,  the chigger nymph has probably already left the scene of the crime. These are bad little critters! The immature forms are parasitic as described and we are told  that in the adult stage, they feed on insects. We are not familiar with them as adults.

Here are some remedies for chigger bites and a few suggestions on how to prevent the bites and control the chiggers.

1. Stay out of chigger infested areas if possible.

2. Wear long, loose fitting trousers tucked in the socks.  Loose fitting, long sleeved shirts will help.  Avoid short pants.

3. Apply powdered sulfur or insect repellent to lower trouser legs and shoes . (We discourage the use of commercial insect repellents.)

4. Keep your lawn well watered. Chiggers prefer dry grasses and weeds.

5.  Itching can be controlled with ordinary baking soda as powder or as a solution in water.

6. An application of vinegar diluted with water helps to discourage chiggers and also to ease the itch of the bites.

7. Best preventive measure yet is ordinary baby oil. After bathing, coat yourself from stem to stern with baby oil. Towel dry.

8. If you have been exposed to chiggers, take a hot bath. Don't be in a hurry; soak a while. Warm soapy water will wash them away quickly. (It's a good  idea to wash your hair and clothing too.)

9. Chiggers can be controlled on your property by a broadcast application of powdered sulfur or diatomaceous earth.

10. Chiggers and fire ants cannot co-exist. A remedy for chigger infestation is fire ant infestation!


The following was discovered as we did research for this article at a Purdue University site.

"Finally, although the word chigger sounds funny and is easy to rhyme, Purdue's Tom Turpin, an entomologist and humorist who teaches a course on insects and literature, says to his knowledge, no one has yet penned a poem about the chigger. 

He says, however, there is one little limerick written years ago by entomologist H.B. Hungerford:"


"The thing called a chigger,
is really no bigger,
than the smaller end of a pin,
but the bump that it raises,
just itches like blazes,
 and that's where the rub sets in."

*Technically chiggers are not insects but are arachnids like spiders and  scorpions. They appear to be most active in mid-summer.



A Man Before His Time, George Washington Carver

 BULLETIN NO. 31 JUNE 1925 

How to Grow the Peanut and 105 Ways of Preparing it for Human Consumption     

Seventh Edition, January 1940 By GEORGE CARVER, M. S. in Agr.,

Director EXPERIMENTAL STATION, TUSKEGEE INSTITUTE, Tuskegee Institute, Alabama 

Reprinted 1983 for Tuskegee Institute National Historic Site, George Washington Carver National Monument by Eastern National Park and Monument Association

Of all the money crops grown by Macon County farmers, perhaps there are none more promising than the peanut in its several varieties and their almost limitless possibilities.
Of the many good things in their favor, the following stand out as most prominent:
Like all other members of the pod-bearing family, they enrich the soil.

They are easily and cheaply grown. For man the nuts possess a wider range of food values than any other legume. The nutritive value of the hay as a stock food compares favorably with that of the cowpea. They are easy to plant, easy to grow, and easy to harvest.

The great food-and-forage value of the peanut will increase in proportion to the rapidity with which we make it a real study. This will increase consumption, and, therefore, must increase production. In Macon County, two crops per year of the Spanish variety can be raised.

The peanut exerts a dietetic or a medicinal effect upon the human system that is very desirable. I doubt if there is another foodstuff that can be so universally eaten, in some form, by every individual.
Pork fattened from peanuts and hardened off with a little corn just before killing, is almost if not quite equal to the famous red-gravy hams, or the world renowned Beechnut breakfast bacon.

The nuts yield a high percentage of oil of superior quality. The clean cake, after the oil has been removed, is very high in muscle-building properties (protein), and the ease with which the meal blends in with flour, meal, etc., makes it of especial value to bakers, confectioners, candy-makers, and ice cream factories. Peanut oil is one of the best known vegetable oils.

A pound of peanuts contains a little more of the body-building nutrients than a pound of sirloin steak, while of the heat and energy producing nutrients it has more than twice as much.

VARIETIES 

There are many varieties of the peanut, all possessing more or less merit. A number have been tested here on our Station grounds and we can heartily recommend the following varieties in the order named:

First, The Spanish---As compared with most other varieties, the vines are small, and upright in growth, with nearly all the pods clinging close to the tap-root; hence, they can be planted closer together and the yield will be larger. This variety produced 59 bushels per acre on very light, sandy soil.

Second, The Georgia and Tennessee Red---These are practically one and the same variety-habit of growth, and fruiting qualities are much the same as the Spanish-with us it made a slightly lower yield. This variety has from three to four kernels to the pod. The nuts are rich in flavor.

Third, The Virginia Running Variety---This variety is often referred to as the typical American peanut. It is decidedly the most popular with the trade. The pods are large and white, the vines spreading, and under favorable conditions it fruits nearly out to the ends of the branches.

SOIL 

With reference to soil, there are two things to bear in mind; viz., whether they are for market or home consumption. The trade demands a light-colored shell, which is only produced on light, sandy, porous soil.

More bushels per acre can be grown on stiff clayey soil than upon light soil, but the pods will be stained dark. In fact, any land that will produce good corn will produce good peanuts provided there is plenty of lime in it.

PREPARATION 
In the preparation of the soil, the chief essentials are:
Deep plowing, from 8 to 9 inches.
Thorough pulverization with a harrow, drag, smoothing board, etc.
Remove all stones, roots, stumps, clods, and obstructions of all kinds


     

 Growing Peanuts in the Home Garden                   


by Richard Jauron, Iowa Department of Horticulture

Peanuts (Arachis hypogaea) are an important field crop in the southeastern United States. In 1995, peanuts were grown on 1.5 million acres in the United States. and produced a crop of 3.5 billion pounds. Peanut seeds (kernels) are used for peanut butter, oil, flour, roasted peanuts, and other food products. While they are not widely grown in Iowa, their unique growth habit makes them a fun addition to the home garden.

Peanuts are also known as goobers, goober peas, groundpeas, ground nuts, and earth nuts. The peanut is a legume with compound leaves
similar to clover and yellow, pea-like flowers. Peanut varieties can be classified by growth habit (bunch or runner) and nut type (Virginia or Spanish). Virginia types are large podded and usually contain 1 or 2 large kernels per pod. Spanish types are smaller podded and contain 2 or 3 small kernels per pod.

Peanuts grow best in loose, well-drained soils. Avoid poorly drained, clay type soils. Plant peanuts after the danger of frost is past. Peanuts require a soil temperature of 65 F for germination. Sow peanut seeds 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep and 6 to 8 inches apart. Row spacing for bunch types should be 24 inches and 36 inches for runner types. Suggested varieties for home gardens include 'Spanish,' 'Early Spanish,' 'Virginia Improved,' and 'Jumbo Virginia.' Peanuts are warm-season annuals that require a minimum of 120 frost free days to reach maturity.

The flowering and fruiting of peanuts are unique. Plants flower above ground, but the pods develop below ground. Peanut plants begin to bloom about 30 to 40 days after emergence. The flowers are small, bright yellow, and pea-like in appearance. After pollination and fertilization occurs, the stalk (peg) below the fertilized ovary elongates and curves downward. It takes about 10 days for the peg to penetrate into the soil. A week after soil penetration, the peg tip enlarges and pod and seed development begin. The fruit mature in 9 to 10 weeks with favorable temperatures and moisture conditions. Since the peanut plant flowers over several weeks, all the pods do not mature at the same time.

Cultivate the soil around peanut plants to control weeds and to keep the soil loose so the pegs can easily penetrate the soil surface. Cultivate shallowly to prevent damage to the peanut roots. Stop cultivation in the immediate vicinity of the plants when the pegs begin to penetrate into the soil. A 1 or 2 inch layer of mulch can be placed around plants in early June to control weeds. Any weeds that do appear can be hand pulled.

Harvest the peanuts when the foliage begins to yellow in late summer or early fall. Dig up the plants with a spading fork and carefully shake off the loose soil. Cure the peanuts by hanging the plants in a warm, dry shed or garage. Beware of mice. After the plants have dried for 1 or 2 weeks, shake off any remaining soil and pull the peanut pods from the plants. Continue to air dry the peanuts for an additional 1 or 2 weeks. Once dried, place the peanuts in mesh bags and store them in cool, well-ventilated place until roasted.

This article originally appeared in the May 2, 1997 issue, p. 56.



 











  

 


 










 

Judy Boyd, who lives in Houston, Texas and has a "postage stamp" sized back yard enjoys this varid collection of useful and fragrant herbs.
Far left on the stool: Italian Parsley, Top shelf: Greek Oregano, 2nd shelf: Lavender, and Rosemary (which is very tricky to keep alive in a pot.) Bottom row: Aloe Vera, Spearmint, Curly Parsley, Thyme, and in the back is a Jade plant. 


Order hand decorated all natural gourd birdhouses from Chronicle want ads on page 27 or phone 903-707-6258.

 

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